Appellation St. Helena: Big Wines from Small Places

by Jim Silver , published on Jim on Wine |

Jim included a few of our member wineries in his short series on very small Napa producers. Tap the link below to read his full article and explore all of his recommended wines! Here is what he had to say about the wines from Appellation St. Helena:

… These wines are made by real people. It’s true. Napa is not as corporate as you might think or imagine. These wines are not made in the dark, by machines, or in a laboratory. They’re made by people, craftspeople, vineyardists, and artisans, all of whom are pretty enthusiastic about what they’re doing.

Patent Wines

2023 Patent Wines Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Yountville AVA – Here’s a handsome Sauvignon with some Musque clones and actual Muscat interplanted in the field. Uber-Winemaker Tom Rinaldi uses 30% or so new wood here, the rest neutral vessels. Super clean nose of light vanilla flan, white flowers, and dry peach. I love how tightly wound it is right now, nervous, zingy-zesty, with superb acidity and perfect balance. Not exotic, not overblown at all, it’s a subtle, elegant, and sunny SB, and a great buy at just $36.

2023 Patent Wines Napa Valley Rosé, Oak Knoll AVA – There are just 100 cases of this fun rosé, made from Cabernet Sauvignon, a saignée from Tom’s (and his partner Eric Risch’s) Cabernet program. Nice red fruits up front, with cherries, licorice, some citrus notes, bergamot, and orange blossoms. Terrific acidity keeps it together and leaves a nice, long finish. ($33)

2022 Patent Wines Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll AVA – About 500 cases made of this Cabernet, Tom uses 75% new French oak. Fine color, saturated garnet. Traditional nose – that is, complex with notes of cedar, earth, graphite, some herbs, black cherry, cassis, and a hint of black pepper. Big acidity, freshness, blackberry flavors, light vanilla, spicy notes, and medium body. Tannins are brisk enough, long, sweet, and grippy, and demand foods like grilled lamb and garlic. It is such a nice version of old-school Napa Cabernet, and I’m enjoying it a lot more than the soft, gloppy, sometimes sticky commercial version. Outstanding value at $75. Go get these local heroes @ www.patentwines.com

Battuello Vineyards

Battuello Vineyards “Stalla” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA – I had two vintages of this wine from winemaker Michael Trujillo and the Battuello family. Italian for a horse barn, this is presumably a second wine to their flagship Cabernet. The ’21 had a hint of green tea in the aromas, along with fresh strawberry, rhubarb, and red raspberry notes, a touch of earthy complexity, sweet, tarragon-like herbs, and genuine freshness. It is a charming wine, traditionally proportioned and nicely balanced, with a grippy finish of more red fruits. Very nice. The ’22 is less green than the ’21 and has a bit more fun spiciness, with red fruits balanced by black and a hint of plummy notes. It is very soft and plush in the mouth. Light tannins and light acidity in a middle-weight wine that should be enjoyed in the near term, if only to enjoy the lovely fruit. (~$80 or so.)

Battuello Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA – Two vintages again here. The ’21 has very serious complexity in the nose. Tightly wound, even a little brooding. Intense blackberry pie and cassis notes with black plum sauce, vanilla bean, and very pretty oak notes. Tremendous depth. The flavors are also tight, layered, and highly complex. The gorgeous definition and long, delicate finish echo blackberry, black fruits, minerals, vanilla, currants, and a hint of graphite. (~$110, a smashing buy. www.battuellovineyards.com – Click on this link and take a look at these beautiful people; you’ll want to buy their wines. The ’22 smells of bread baking, baking spices, soft, ripe black plums, and blackberries, and is warm, rich, and intense. The splendid nose is reserved but generous enough. Full and exceptionally rich on the palate, with bold flavors of ripe black fruit and complex earthy elements that are truly dynamite. Excellent finish, nice and clean. Beautiful, one of my favorites from this vintage so far.

2022 Battuello Vineyards Petit Verdot, St. Helena AVA – Asian spices and violets, garlic, roses, tea berries, perfume, rhubarb, mole poblano, raw beef…you get the picture here? Aggressive attack. Robust, almost violent, acidic, like listening to a podcast at 2x speed. Leather, catcher’s mitt, spicy black fruits, black peppercorn, ginger, and concentrated florals. You’d better buckle up. It’s not usually my style, but someone is going to LOVE this sexy, dangerously fun wine. Go! (~$80.)

Panek Vineyards

2021 Panek Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – Ooo, look out. This is made by Thomas Rivers Brown, and you can tell that immediately. Great intensity in the color and in the nose. Powerfully dark, black cherry-dominated fruits, with black and red plum and cassis in the nose. Massive intensity, full attack, medium-full palate, with developed mid-palate replete with blackberries, crème de cassis, minerals, vanilla oak notes, and zingy fresh acidity. Stunning wine. A killer. (Not sure of the price, but around $170, I would guess, www.panekvineyards.com)